2023 - The Trip

Now we know the reasons for such an 'out of the way' route and having reflected on previous visits a little it would be good to say something about this year's trip and our expectations.

Given that the focal point of this trip has always been Kleanza Creek then some other things come into play.  Firstly, it isn't the easiest place to get to so we 'ummed and aahed' for ages about how to fit Kleanza Creek into the scheme of things.  We could take a few internal flights and base ourselves in Vancouver - then we would miss the Rockies, a very important factor.

So in the end we opted for another long drive!  This meant we could bring the Rockies in and go back to our firm friend, Jasper.  It has been 7 years since we were last there and it is 'on the way' to Kleanza Creek! Sort of!

Jasper is also bear country and, for me, bears are a fundamental part of any trip to Canada.  You can't plan for bears though, I'm afraid - they just happen.  If you go looking for bears, they become remarkably invisible.  More of bears later.

So Calgary to Jasper it is via the Icefield's Parkway and a stop off at Castle Mountain to begin with.  This will let us explore Johnstone Canyon which we have never done for some reason and also see how far the Columbia Icefield has retreated. If time permits then a visit to Moraine Lake is a must to climb the logs at the end of the lake and gaze on one of the most spectacular sights of the Rockies.

We will be nearly a week in Jasper in an apartment under someone's house - quite common.  Sadly we won't be able to relax in Miette Hot Springs as the only road to it has sustained significant damage due to a mud slide.   But we will do plenty of exploring and, quite probably a bit of kayaking plus a boat to the sacred Spirit Island on Maligne Lake.  The big question for us, though - is the fabulous pizza place still open?

Image from the Canadian Rockies Hot Springs website. https://hotsprings.ca

From Jasper we set out for Kleanza Creek, Terrace.  It's a 950km drive and we have promised not to overdrive ourselves this time so we will be stopping off at McBride, Vanderhoof and Smithers on the way there.  This will give us a chance to take in new parts of Canada we have never seen before - once we get past Mount Robson, of course.  Getting past Mount Robson could be difficult as it is an amazing site.  It is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies at 3954 meters (12,792 feet)...first ascended in 1913.  It is an imposing site on a clear day, and an eerie site when shrouded in mist.  There is a very useful Visitor Centre and plenty of trails for a good hike up to Kinney Lake - if you have the time!

Smithers has become an interesting stopover as I have just discovered that the local Buckley Valley Museum may stock a series of photos taken by my great great uncle Willam Walker Wrathall documenting the Skeena River and the local First Nations People.  I say 'may' because the newspaper cutting I read is dated 1995.

After a few days in Terrace honouring my mum at Kleanza Creek we move on to Prince Rupert for a couple of days.  It should be longer but I was thrown a curved ball by BC Ferries when looking to book another spectacular part of this journey - the 15 hour Inside Passage ferry from Prince Rupert down to Vancouver Island through the Great Bear Rainforest passing through the likes of Klemtu and Bella Bella  and past Hartley Bay - place names I have always conjoured with and wanting to be there.  This is Spirit Bear country - probably the closest we will get to seeing one of the rarest animals in the world, I guess.  Klemtu is one of the jumping off points to explore the rainforest and, potentially get a glimpse of the white bear (which is really a black bear with pigmented skin).  Rumour has it that there are between 100 and 500 in existence - but nobody really knows.  We did explore the possibility of joining one of Tim Irvin's trips to commune with Spirit Bears and see them in their natural environment - but time and cost were against us, I'm afraid.  But if you want to explore this then please have a look at his website https://www.timirvin.com/spirit-bear-tours/

We will arrive at Port Hardy around midnight for a week at the Azure Beach house in Hyde Creek, just beyond Port McNeill.  It is on the waters edge - the Broughton Straight leading to the Johnstone Straight, hunting grounds of transient orca and the Northern Resident pods. We will look over to Alert Bay with the U'mista Cultural Centre and Malcolm Island and it's "place of hormony", Sointula.  The boardwalk village of Telegraph Cove is a short drive away.

We expect nature and culture to be a huge part of this week before moving on to a final few days in Vancouver, reminding ourselves of this special place and bringing to a close a beautiful month.